The Amazon and back

The final review Tilbury to The Azores via Amazonia and the Windward Islands

We arrived back in Tilbury on time, disembarking at around 09:30 passing through customs and border control without stopping and finding our lift back to the car awaiting us. Five hours later we are home

I’ve found it difficult to sit down and write this. 
Mainly because I’m not certain if my audience has had enough of my writings, and therefore bored stiff, or if you are seriously interested in my views on cruising.
Anyway, here goes, straight off the top of my head, as usual.
Firstly I should say the idea of a cruising holiday has not been removed from our what to do for holidays list, because on the whole we pretty much enjoyed everything about it.
Sure, we could have some moans and groans particularly about the level of staff training, and the lack of English understanding, even up to waiter supervisor level, and indeed our maitre d’.
I still didn’t get a properly set soft boiled egg!  
What we both agree on is that we are not suited to long stretches at sea. 
Not wanting to be in the choir, or learn the ukulele, playing bridge, beanbag bowls, puck pushing, craft and creation, bingo, or to enter 3 quizzes and variations of the kind a day, didn’t suit our personal situation.
But, on the good days when we weren’t in the teeth of a gale, reading a few more books on deck 10, than we usually would, didn’t do us any harm, and made time pass that much quicker.
Our options therefore are to review shorter cruises, or fly cruise. 
The benefit of non fly cruising being that weight restrictions on luggage are not imposed. 
So something to consider for next time.
Generally entertainment on board was good with one or two exceptions, but that’s to be expected.
Our lectures were in the main were very good, and two of the presenters shone out. 
An unexpected run of lectures on tigers, and details of the geography of our cruise and the locations to be visited, were excellently put forward by two very good presenters.
All in all, despite the lack of boiled eggs, the food was very good, the lead chef, an Indian, not only had a knack with curry but all the other dishes under his control were well cooked, especially the fish dishes.
No over cooked steaks or lamb cutlets were witnessed.
The sweets left a lot to be desired and took the form, in most instances, of the American sweets where you look forward to a certain flavour but seldom find it. The cheeses and ice creams on offer were good though.
The tours on the whole were well organised, a sort of whistle stop tour of the locations highlighting locations which would be worth a revisit.
I have to say those revisits would probably be for the crash out holiday that Pauline and I no longer need.
One place that I would recommend is steered well clear of though is Manaus. This is the capital of the state of Amazonas
You may recall this was the place we were forced to endure an extra day whist the lifting gear was fixed.
Despite all the warnings about ostentatious parading of wealth, around 30 individuals were robbed or mugged of their valuables. 
One a waiter, who got separated from his drinking pals, got relieved of everything but his underpants, and he kept them because his pleadings to his assailants fell on at least on one thoughtful set of ears.
Fortunately none of those robbed was injured, physically at least.
Our cabin was pretty good, we had plenty of room, wardrobe space and a window overlooking the sea. 
The bed was comfortable, although with both of  us at sometime trying to cough our lungs up, we didn’t get a good night's sleep throughout the cruise.
So, there you have it, I don’t think I’ve missed anything out. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
I’m still sorting through the many photographs.

Back on time

Sunday 14th February 11:00 GMT

Not a lot to write home about really, we put the clocks forward last night for the final time and as I look at the tv screen Channel One which charts our cruise path it shows we are just off Brest.
When we left San Miguel last Thursday there appears to have been a bit of a medical incident in the early evening which caused us to turn left around the top of the Islands, effectively starting to turn back. 
When I came back from dinner, we sat and had a light meal with our table companions, I looked at the screen, which I leave permanently on, as I like the music selection that backs it up, and what had been a 17 knot sailing back home in a North Easterly direction showed that we had turned to the west and were travelling at less than 5 knots.
I didn’t think a great deal more of it although, I pointed it out to Pauline.
Anyway to cut the story short, on our return to the cabin after the evening entertainment we were back on course and steaming along at 17 knots again.
Breakfast Friday morning via the grapevine told us that a male passenger had been airlifted off with breathing problems. 
I have to admit I can well believe that, any old’un with a weakness and there are a few, catching hold of the ship's cough could well get in a good deal of breathing trouble.
We don’t get the official line, but funnily enough the original part of the journey up to The Azores from Tilbury is no longer showing, but is showing that we have only been cruising for 974 nautical miles when we’ve travelled over 11000!
I haven’t been keeping you up to date with our health, but Pauline still has her cough, and mine has been at it’s worst for the last two nights. It’s one of those coughs that gives the impression it’s gone, then it comes back.
We put the “Do not disturb notice” outside early this morning to get ourselves a couple more hours sleep.
Not certain what we’ll be doing today, probably much the same as the last three days, reading, eating and drinking, although the last of those activities, at least from my perspective, has been somewhat below normal levels. 
By normal levels, I mean this normal cruise levels.
Must stop drinking out of wet glasses!
Tonight we have the last formal dinner, which will no doubt have a Valentines day theme....God ‘elpus!
So, we’re so near and yet so far, fast approaching the English Channel but not due into Tilbury until 07:00 on Tuesday. 
We’ll be disembarking at 09.00. 
All I have to figure out in the meantime is what were the arrangements to get back to Orsett Hall for the motor. 11:30

Day 37 Thursday 11th February 16.30

Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel, Azores

Day 37 Thursday 11th February 16.30

That’s it, we’re now on our way home.
Seven hours earlier that planned as the Captain has been instructed, due to poor weather conditions, to get back to Tilbury.
My guess is that another storm is brewing in the Atlantic and we are going to try to beat it. 
We can’t yet get domestic tv on the satellite yet, so are you expecting Jill or Jane ?
Anyway, a full day out today on an organised trip around the island of Sao Miguel.
We started at 08:00 and arrived back half an hour ago, a bit late as our brand new bus couldn’t restart after our very last visit to a pineapple farm.
Another beautiful island, probably worth another visit, same black and white churches that I recall from our very first trip to North Portugal many years ago in our youth!
We headed off in a north easterly direction to cross the island at it’s narrowest point passing through the important agricultural areas of the island to the small town of Riberia Grande, with it’s historical buildings dating back to the early settlement days.  
The Riberia (river) which the town is known, is a fast moving small river, the guide called it a stream, but it needed quite a substantial bridge to get over it
We then moved onto a viewing point on the summit of Pico do Ferro Belvedere, passing through working tea plantation areas in the Furness Valley.
From the summit we were to get fantastic views of the valley and Fire Lake. “ A large lake with transparent waters”
We decided not to get off the coach just in the hope of getting a view as we were enveloped in a thick mist. It cleared up later in the day, but we were on the way back and passed it by at ground level.
It was big lake though!
Our next stop was the botanical gardens of The Terra Nostra Botanical Park. We never tire of walking through gardens but only saw a part of the 32 acres. 
Then off to Furnas hot springs, well just down the road to an area of 23 sulphur spewing mineral springs. 
I tried a handful of two separate ice cold spring water, conveniently piped to a point by the roadway, both of which tasted better than the bottled fizzy stuff some of you buy from Tesco!
Suitably sated we then headed off to “a typical Azorean three course lunch”.
This consisted of a chunky and thick vegetable soup, followed by roast beef impregnated with chorizo, square chips, and smaller square mixed veg. Our sweet was a chunk of home grown pineapple. 
Not bad, but the wine to go with it wasn’t local but from mainland Portugal. 
I would like to excuse it , but I think, “doesn’t travel well“  may be appropriate!
Finally we were taken off to one of many pineapple plantations on the island, and were shown how they are grown.
This is where the bus packed up, the driver couldn’t get it started.
Then the advantage of visiting a small island fully prepared for the 135 cruise ships that visit in a season shone through. 
With only two ships in the harbour today, Magellan and a bloody great P&O block of flats, a spare bus was with us within 15 minutes.
So back in time for the early cast off.
Currently heading in an easterly direction at 17.8 knots for 4 days at sea expected to arrive at Tilbury 07:00 on the 16th.
I don’t think we will dining again tonight!

Part Two Day 36: Horta

Part Two Day 36

What a picturesque location is this town of Horta. 
That’s not just relating to the scenery, although that looks like it could be pretty good on a less drizzly grey day, but the town with it‘s black and white painted churches and other mainly pastel coloured buildings.
We set off this morning, more or less as the gang plank was put in place, so at about 09:30 we turned left off the ship towards the main street, via the passenger terminal.
I started taking photo’s almost immediately and we set of on what was to be a slow walk to the marina and a cup of Nescafe in one of the cafe dotted around. 
We then walked back on ourselves down the back streets and the main shops, picking up a couple of carnival masks on the way, as we understand that one evening this week dinner will have a carnival theme.
At this time we also checked out restaurant menus, we had at the back of our mind that perhaps we would have a good lunch and not be too concerned about food back on the ship.
Eventually after walking all the way back to the where the ship was docked we decided we would lunch and so we wended our way back to the marina.
 Pauline could remember seeing a menu that featured prawns as one of it’s dishes. She quite fancied a prawn or two, but we reached the marina with no joy in finding the menu. 
So we started again to walk the back streets.
Yes, she was that keen.
There it is she exclaimed, and indeed it was, so we stepped inside and found a table for four tucked into a corner by the window.
I say four because it was effectively two tables for two, adjacent to each other and we put ourselves window side facing each other.
We waited a short while, wondering how we ordered food when the owner caught my eye and nodded from the bar area. 
So we were off and running, so to speak.
The menu did fortunately have an English section and throughout the menu, in all the languages, each dish was numbered.
The waiter came a little while after and asked us what number we wanted and whether we wanted one, or small (that wasn‘t the term but memory fails me). 
Expecting English sized portions we ordered one, each.
Pauline her prawns with mixed vegetables and salad, and me roasted goat with mixed vegetables and salad.
I then had the problem of ordering wine, we wanted white and it became quite obvious to me that bianco wasn’t Portuguese for white.
No wine list available, but I thought I had got through to him and off he trotted.
A short while later returning with a paper tablecloth, and a knife and fork each. He asked would we like butter and cheese, puzzled expressions all around, then I remembered the menu had a starter which was bread, butter and cheese.
Having clicked, I responded  no obrigado!
He then came back with two small glasses and an already uncorked bottle of white wine, so for lunchtime ordering, we were halfway there. 
It was a very good local dry wine branco, and I was convinced the numbered menu was guaranteed to be ok.
An old couple then came into the restaurant, by old I mean 80’s and asked if they may sit at the table next to us, thereby blocking at least me in for the duration.
We said no problem. They were English and as it turned out off the ship and to cap it all from Grimsby of all places.
We assisted them, now being professional at the use of the menu, and in the method of ordering.
In the meantime our food turned up.
A massive platter each full of our respective orders and piles of chips rice and salad.
Our new found friends were immediately persuaded that a number one was too much for them.
So they were well prepared when the waiter turned up for their order.
In the meantime Pauline and I chomped on. 
Pauline with her pile of extremely garlicy prawns, and me with my really tasty but boney goat.
So we were both finger feeding ourselves and chatting to the couple. 
The old boy being a sixteen years retired, general practitioner and his wife very much a Doctor‘s wife.
To cut an even longer story short, the four of us finished our meals after about two hours of constant chatter and exchanging our life stories.
Will we meet again? 
Who knows, we hadn’t met them on the ship................yet.

I don’t think we’ll be dining tonight!

I've bought a watch by the way, after 15 years of putting up with me asking her the time, as I gave up wearing a watch when I retired, Pauline has persuaded me to buy a rather nice slim style "ONE"

Oh yes, did I tell you I was an Egghead?

Horta, Faial, The Azores

Wednesday 10th February: Day 36 

09.00

Today we arrive at the island of Faial, and have authority to park up at 09.00, five hours ahead of time.
The weather has been good to us on the way up from Barbados, a tad overcast at the moment.
The Azores, by the way, are nine hundred and fifty miles west of the Iberian peninsular (Portugal) and about 2400 miles east from New York
The islands are Portuguese and appear to have been in the main since 1465.
So, we’ve sorted out our Euro’s and have the whole day to do what we want, we’ve not booked the only trip today to see the volcano.
In the immortal words of my leader, she who must be obeyed “if you’ve seen one volcano you’ve seen them all“

Oh yes, I’m now a Magellan Egghead.

Speak later

All at sea (two)

Tuesday 9th February

Position 09.00 UTC
34 degrees 19.00 minutes North
035 degrees 26.33 minutes West
Course 055 degrees
Speed 18.4 knots
Total cruise distance sailed 9569 nm

08.00 with just one more time zone change to go
One more day sailing in a North Easterly direction, our course since leaving Barbados, before we reach the nine  islands  that make up the Azores.
So, what have we been doing?

Well, apart from things already highlighted since day one....not a lot.
Plenty of facts learned from our lecturers, on passenger talent has shown itself to be pretty good as have in the main the entertainers.
Four nights ago I volunteered, with three others, to go up  against four other passengers who participate in all three daily quizzes as a team, to have a go at the ships Eggheads quiz.
Tonight is the last night, so the fifth, and we’re still in it! 
I’ll let you know how that goes in my next report, save as to say, it’s a good job I have some completely random but very good partners.

I can honestly say we’ve not been bored, but we are both at the stage where we’re read out and look forward to being at home. 
So we’ve lined up our Duty Free, three bottles of Bombay Sapphire, and a bottle of Glenfiddich. 
I guess my one is the Scotch, because as the lady in the supermarket advert says “ I like gin “!

In a (coco)nut shell

Wednesday 3rd and Thursday 4th January Days 29 and 30

It has occurred to me that this necklace of islands, although full of jewels with their own particular shine, are somewhat the same, so I won’t tell you what our next two excursions to St Lucia and Barbados entailed. 
Save as to say, that they both had the same things to offer in respect of scenery, golden beaches and forts that changed hands when somebody spotted a flag flying that wasn’t theirs from either the French or British navy, right up until the Treaty of Paris in 1763, or sometime later in 1828 when all the Grenadines were ceded to Britain.
I was unable to get access to the Kensington Oval in Bridgetown Barbados, so perhaps some other time. 
We did get to visit and walk around Sunbury Plantation House though.
At around 300 hundred years old this big Georgian house was fully furnished and gave a vivid impression of life, for the owners at least, on a sugar estate in the 18th and 19th centuries.

These islands have certainly sold themselves over the years shouting far louder than their size.. 
They are mere specs in the ocean which without the trade in spices, sugar and bananas, over the centuries would just be small islands created out of volcanic activity, and in one case Barbados, pure coral. 
In fact I would go as far as to say that without these islands and their seeds, the Indian sub continent could well be somewhat poorer than it is today.
There are only eight inhabited islands of the 32 islands and cays, which I now understand is effectively any piece of rock that shows above the sea surface! 
All suffer 25-30% unemployment and in many, tourism is the mainstay of the economy. 
St Lucia  and Barbados being the most popular and if I fancied a lazy break would be return destinations.

As I write this, we are in a force six/seven with grey clouds overhead, we have now travelled around 8000 nautical miles and are at sea until Wednesday afternoon 10th February when we arrive in Horta in the Azores, where we shall stay one day and move onto Ponta Delagarda for another day before the homeward cruise over five more days at sea.
Arriving at Tilbury on the 16th at 7am.

St Vincent and Bequia

Tuesday 2nd February
St Vincent (am) 
I have to say there is not a great deal here, apart from the scenery that is, which showed up pretty well after our 600 foot climb up narrow bumpy lanes to Fort Charlotte, a British garrison built in 1806 to fight off the local Carib indians.
After that we visited the Botanical Gardens, purportedly the oldest of their kind in the Western hemisphere.
Like most gardens they were covered with flowers and trees, by the end of our island visits I kind of got fed up being told about bread fruit bought in by Captain Bligh, and the number of things you can do with the seed and bark of nutmeg and cinnamon etc etc!
Another panoramic view stop off point to see the Mesopotamia Valley (the Food Basket) and it’s banana plantations the mainstay of the economy. 
Finally a beach bar with a bottle of local beer (l***r)

Bequia (pm)
In the afternoon we anchored of the island of Bequia for another bus trip.
Now, I didn’t recall ever hearing in my geography or seeing stamps for this island. Probably no wonder when the population is a mere 4300. 
The French developed settlements here in the 1760’s but like all the islands in this area, changed hands regularly between the French and the English, when a warship just happened to be passing and drove out the minor opposition left to caretake. 
Anyway, a cracking little island with nothing going for it apart from it’s sandy beaches and natural beauty. Once famous for it’s sugar plantations during the peak of slaving activities.
After that it was time for our afternoon stop for a local beer (l***r) in the Whaleboner Bar. Apparently the island has a long history of Whaling, which is still permitted for up to 4 whales a year by the International regulations relating to indigenous peoples fishing rights.
They very seldom catch any, but have been known to land one or two a year for use only on the island.
Oh yes, I nearly overlooked this from my notes.
We also drove to a Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary on the Atlantic coast run voluntarily by an old boy by the name of Orton G King. He collects hatchlings of the endangered Hawksbill turtle and grows them onto about 10 inches and then releases them.

Grenada ,

Monday 1st February 

We shall be stopping off  at four of the 32 islands and cays that form a necklace in the southern Caribbean called the  Grenadines which are technically part of the Windward Islands.
We arrived at around 08:00, at St Georges the capital of Grenada after passing earlier this morning, between Trinidad and Tobago and into the Caribbean for our first port of call .
The population is in the region of 25000 of the 106500 on the island
We had to hang about until 13:15 for our excursion, which was good because after an early walk around the town I was feeling a bit rough. 
My tickly cough is back, but worse, and I kept feeling a bit churny in the stomach. 
An Alka Selzer seemed to have calmed both maladies.

So we were off for a four and half hour bus tour of the island.
Fortunately the bus was modern, and air conditioned with plenty of legroom.
This was good, as I had envisaged a rather uncomfortable few hours.
As it turned out all of our following tours around the Caribbean islands were in ever improving transport.
Grenada is known as "the spice of the Caribbean" due to it's prolific production of nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger.
First of all we climbed to 800 feet up a narrow road to Fort Frederick with panoramic views of the city and harbour
This fort by the way, is the same place that the Regan’s boys bombed back in the Thatcher’s time, from around 1984 from memory, and killed 37 occupants of part of the fort which at that time was a mental hospital. 
Nowadays called collateral damage, but what both Pauline’s and my Dad experienced during their wartime service, as gungho cowboy Yanks.
This was followed by a mainly driving trip through the centre of the very beautiful island , stopping off at the now derlict Dougaldston Spice Estate where we were introduced to all the spices and fruits of the area and on to the fishing village of Goyave and then into the National Park for a visit to Grand Etang lake set in the very centre of the island but at 1900 feet above sea level.Where we finished up in a local bar for rum punch or in our case a local beer (l***r).